Fear, excitement and anticipation

I've travelled to almost 70 countries during my 64 years on earth. I think it's fair to say that I love nothing more than to explore new places, learn about new cultures, meet new people and indulge in new experiences. On 20 December, I will embark on a new adventure that will start with an overnight flight to Buenos Aires where Sadie will join me on the 22nd.  On the 23rd, we will fly to Ushuaia, at the southernmost tip of Argentina.  On Christmas Day, we will board the ship for a 12 day return (I hope) trip to Antarctica. 

Why Antarctica, you may ask. Well, it's a question I've been asking myself of late. It's cold, it's windy, it's bleak and a damn sight riskier than a jaunt to Brighton. I guess that when you have already been to 68 other countries on six continents, you are somewhat limited in new ones to visit. So, as much as I hate tick-box travel, I will confess that there is excitement to be found in ticking off my last remaining continent. I feel more than a little ashamed to admit that. But more than that, I am excited about the other-worldliness of the place.  It is quite literally at the end of the earth, and won't it be wonderful to see things that so few people get the opportunity to see?  There will be icebergs, penguins, whales, leopard seals, and all manner of birds that you don't typically find in your back garden. I will have the great privilege of seeing all this in the company of my daughter.

There is a reason that so few people get to see these things.  Travelling to Antarctica is eye wateringly expensive. My mom passed away before we had to sell her house to pay for her care.  My remaining inheritance is just about covering the costs for Sadie and me. I'm pretty sure she would be absolutely over the moon for us to spend her legacy this way.   In our family, I fulfil the role of intrepid rogue and this trip would simply reinforce that role in her mind. I also remember the time when she was visiting us and took a very young Sadie to the London zoo. When they returned home, she told me how irate she was at all the adults who had pushed their way in front of Sadie until she'd had enough and "had to say something in front of the penguins!".  She insisted that the penguins were nonplussed by her lecture to their spectators, but the image of embarrassed penguins stays with me to this day. Until she died, my mom and Sadie shared a mutual love of both penguins and polar bears that resulted in an excess of cartoons, cards and cuddly toys. A trip to Antarctica is just carrying on the theme.

I can honestly say, I've never been more excited about a trip. I've also never been more anxious. We will be crossing the Drake Passage. Twice. The Drake Passage is considered one of the most treacherous voyages for ships to make.  The Antarctic Circumpolar Current, which runs through it, meets no resistance from any landmass, and waves regularly top 40 feet.  We will be travelling on the MV Plancius, a renovated oceanographic research vessel of the Royal Netherlands Navy, now used as a polar expedition vessel by Oceanwide Expeditions. The Plancius is a relatively old ship, and I have been assured that she is completely seaworthy.  Regardless, last night I woke up gasping for breath from a nightmare in which I was Shelly Winters in the Poseidon Adventure.  It must be a sign of my age that I did not dream I was Kate Winslet on the Titanic. Anyway, Leonardo DiCaprio has never really done it for me. 

In addition to the overturned boat/drowning fears, there are many other things to be anxious about. I get seasick in a swimming pool.  I'm bringing a plentiful supply of Scopoderm patches which are supposed to help with the nausea. The documentation says "The hyoscine works by reducing the conflict in your brain, which can happen whilst travelling."  I'm all in favour of anything that reduces the conflict in my brain. 

In the lucky event I don't spend the 12 days on the bathroom floor of my cabin, I'm anxious about being stuck on a relatively small boat with 100 people I don't know and can't escape from.   What if they are insufferable travel snobs keen to tick off their seventh continent? What if they are all young and decide that I'm the one to toss off the lifeboat or possibly even eat if stranded on an iceberg? What if they are all Trump-supporting Americans? I think I'd prefer flesh eaters.

Finally, I'm anxious about being fit enough to do all the wonderful adventurous activities on offer.  I've been training for this trip for over a year. I've lost 25 kg (55 lbs). I go to the gym 5 times a week, but I'm still scared that I won't be able to get in and out of a kayak without capsizing or keep up on the group hikes. The trauma of 60 years of being the last one picked for the team does not disappear after a few spin classes.

Having said all of the above, I'm still quivering with anticipation and excitement.  When Sadie and I return to Ushuaia, she will fly home to NYC and I will meet my friend and travel companion, Jane, to carry on travelling for several weeks in Argentina and Uruguay. Jane will then head home, and I will carry on to Chile and Easter Island on my own before returning home on 29 January. 

I'm planning to write about my travels assuming I can find enough humour to keep it interesting. Not sure what internet access I'll have, but I will post when I can.  In the meantime, many thanks to Richard who will keep Lola warm by maintaining the home fires. He also has a copy of my will should it be required.