Lessons Learned

 I've been home for a week now, and it's given me time to reflect on what was a totally epic travel adventure.  I've learned more than I could ever document, but here are some of my key reflections.

1. I probably should have learned Spanish instead of French. Or both.
2. Argentinian Spanish pronunciation is completely different from that in Spain or Chile. LL is pronounced shzzz, not yuh. The Y in playa is pronounced juh, so ply-juh. It took me several weeks to figure this out.
3. Being able to say, in Spanish, “I'm sorry, but I don't speak Spanish very well” buys you a lot of good will.
4. When you have been travelling for a long time in places where they speak Spanish, your ear gets used to hearing it and you convince yourself you understand until you realise you don’t. 
5. In Spanish, people use the term “Senora”  a lot to denote a married or older woman.  This translates to people calling you “lady” a lot when they are speaking English. It instinctively feels rude, but it is, in fact, the opposite.
6. Remember your debit card but don’t forget your credit card. The hotels require a credit card as a hold for extra charges.  They won’t use debit cards for this.
7. I did not find a single ATM that worked for me in any of the places I visited.  Luckily most restaurants and shops take cards, but you still need cash for tips.
8. In Argentina, always travel with a mix of crisp, fresh hundred dollar bills (to change) and a wide selection of smaller denominations to tip when you haven’t been able to change.  
9. Do not believe what anyone tells you about it being a good idea to use Western Union to wire money to yourself.  I never found a single Western Union office that had that service on the day I went there. 
10. Never negotiate price with people substantially less well off than you in places where things are pretty cheap anyway.  Also, tip above the expected in these situations.  Never forget how damned privileged you are.
11. Chile is a LOT cheaper than Argentina.
12. Dulce de leche counts as one of the basic food groups in Argentina. 
13. Hotel breakfast buffets are pretty much identical the world over. They also all tell you you are not supposed to take food out of the dining room.
14. I'm expert at "stealing" breakfast food to make a sandwich for lunch. 
15. Airport food is universally expensive and disgusting.
16. Ice cream is a perfectly acceptable lunch. Or dinner. Or breakfast. 
17. Even though the steak in Argentina is amongst the best I have ever had (sorry, Texas), I can’t eat it every day. Or even every other day. 
18. There is such a thing as too much raw tuna.
19. Pisco sours may possibly be the most dangerous cocktail one can have. I like to live dangerously.
20. I don’t know how I made it to 64 without eating Pastel de Choclo. It is the world's ultimate comfort food.
21. I really love Cabernet Franc. And Tanet. 
22. Travelling solo in one’s 60s is vastly different than when in one’s 20’s and 30’s. Hostels are better than hotels for meeting people. I am no longer pulling cute guys to hang with. 
23. When I travel with Jane, we have a rule that we can’t freak out at the same time. When I travel alone, I can’t freak out at all.
24. High end tasting menus and wine pairings are no fun to do alone, even if the food and wine are exceptional.
25. I am quite capable of spending long periods of time by myself. Not only did nothing bad happen, I actually rather enjoyed it. As long as I have an endless supply of books.
26. The old lady premium is real. I am far more likely to be helped than hassled.  Going through security, my fake knee sets off the metal detector, but when I show security my scar they don’t even bother to search me.
27. It is possible to wear all the same clothes for a week as long as you change your underwear and socks.
28. Always travel with Imodium. Sometimes you will not be in a position to find a pharmacy.
29. Packing cubes and zip lock bags are the most valuable packing accessories. See number 13 above.
30. If you are travelling for more than a week, invest in some quick dry silk knickers and some merino or bamboo socks.
31. Pack a number of things you are happy to leave behind. Replace the space with things you want to buy.
32. Bidets should be standard everywhere. See number 26 above.
33. Bidets are perfect for washing knickers and socks and, in a pinch, your last clean top.  
34. It’s impossible to get bored watching penguins. Or seals. Or whales. Or condors.
35. In Antarctica, you can see versions of the colour blue that you will never see anywhere else.
36. Never kayak in Antarctica with someone who has never kayaked before and is too busy talking to listen to instructions. In fact, never kayak anywhere with this person. Or hike with them. Or share any space with them anywhere.
37. Just because the Drake Passage isn’t too rough heading south does not mean it won’t be a Drake shake heading north.
38. People who travel on expedition boats (as opposed to cruises) to Antarctica are usually really interesting.
39. Not only is it possible to dance in snowshoes, it is a joyous thing to do.
40. Exceptional beauty overwhelms me and makes me cry. 
41. Watching her mother cry at exceptional beauty makes Sadie roll her eyes.
42. Having one or two shopping goals makes the trip more fun and adds a new dimension to your days.
43. Avoid group tours wherever possible.
44. Be deeply suspicious of older female tour guides who work on autopilot.
45. I did 12 flights on this trip.  Only when flying from London did anyone care about liquids in my hand luggage.
46. Argentinian men are very handsome and many have that lovely combination of dark skin and hair with light eyes. I try not to think too hard about the fact that this might be due to the relatively recent introduction of German genes.
47. Even though I have no sense of rhythm and I can’t dance worth a damn, I want to take Tango lessons.
48. When one meets people travelling, one always thinks you will remain friends forever. The reality is, you rarely see them again.
49. One of my new friends gave me the best quote ever from a book called Weather.  "I remind myself (as I often do) never to become so addicted to drugs or alcohol that I'm not allowed to use them".

50. The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear”.